Well I made another jacket. This is the Joy Jacket by Chalk and Notch and its up there in my top 5 sews. I’ve found outerwear is extremely gratifying. They get a lot of wear, last a long time, and look way more complicated to make than they really are. This one is fully lined, which is something I’ve never done before, and it makes the perfect light weight spring jacket in this lilac tencel twill from Indiesew.
The name of the jacket already has a lot of significance and you can read about it here. Joy is also my word for this year. Shortly after my son was born I faced a postpartum depression battle I never saw coming. Much of PPD is hormonal, but conscious efforts to have joy and gratitude are key players in the healing process. Gabriela had custom labels made that she included in her trim kits, and I am so glad that I can be reminded to choose joy every time I put my jacket on.
Out of the package (PDF), this comes with fine practical details, beautiful interior finish, optional hood and drawstrings, and a couple pocket styles. I never know which is better: hood or no hood. I like the lower profile of hoodless, but sometimes you need the hoods because they serve a purpose. I don’t labor over the decision and just make both in one, like I did with my Anorak. It is pretty simple to do. I simply made view A and cut out the hood as well. For the hood I just cut off the front part of the collar so it stopped farther back. I didn’t have to add or remove seam allowances because I turned the seam under and top-stitched. I added interfacing to the bottom of the hood and both collar pieces to accommodate the snaps.
I ran in to a bit of a dilemma with the snaps because I used these antique brass spring snaps, but the studs weren’t antique brass and they were rather cheap. I love shopping at Wawak and they have many good products but I cannot recommend these. I went ahead and installed them but I knew I wouldn’t be happy with them. I then realized I had another set of snaps that I had picked up on my Denver sewing adventure, so I had my husband very carefully dig the first set out and I switched them up for the set you see here.
When Gabriela posted the tester call I almost applied, and labored over the decision the entire day. I had stepped back from testing as part of my PPD recovery. Deadlines trigger panic and not testing patterns was an easy way to eliminate unnecessary deadlines. I never regretted the decision to stop testing until this jacket. When tester photos started popping up I felt like I was missing out. Deep down I knew I made the right decision. I knew I wouldn’t have been able to complete the deadline anyway since my grandma passed away in the middle of it. But as many of you can probably relate, Instagram is on one hand a great place to bring sewists together and inspire and encourage one another, but on the other hand it can be over-inspiring, spurring desires to make way more than we reasonably can. In the end I never missed out. I bought the pattern when it released and took my sweet time enjoying the process.
The Sewing Saga
I already had the fabric and supplies ready to go before the release – or so I thought. When I went to print it I decided this would be a good pattern to send to PDF Plotting. So I bought a couple other patterns on my list and sent them all to get printed at once. After it arrived I realized I hadn’t bought matching thread, so I placed a Wawak order for thread. (If you are sewing with this lilac Tencel twill from Indiesew, Mara 100 #259 is your color 😉 )While cutting the lining pieces I doubted my decision to use the rayon lining in the sleeves. The pattern calls for Bemberg rayon and to be honest I had no idea what that was. I checked in with Gabriela and she confirmed I needed to get it. Sure enough it was completely necessary and I am thrilled with how easy this is to put on because of it. I had to wait a week for the sleeve fabric, but continued constructing up to the lining part and then realized my zipper was awkwardly too short. My size called for 26″ so I got a 28″, even though I lengthened the jacket 2.75″. I hoped the 3/4″ wouldn’t matter since you can have overhang, but my size was already at the top of the 26″ recommendation. Next size up called for 28″. My zipper was going to stop well enough above the base of the pockets to look weird. So I placed yet another Wawak order for a 30″ zipper. Totally worth it. Needless to say the jacket spanned a good period of time to make. But fear not, it isn’t overly time consuming in and of itself.
Time investment 11 hours from cut to finish. Adding the detachable hood took an hour and a half, and the optional drawstrings took an hour, so without those details it could have been an 8.5 hour project.
I like to leave the clock running as much as possible, even if I have to seam rip, to accurately represent the time investment. However, I decided to exclude big mistakes, like sewing sleeves backs together and sleeve fronts together (not that I did that or anything :P). I didn’t include those, since realistically you wouldn’t do something silly like that ;P.
Adjustments I added 2.75″ to the length, 2″ to the sleeve length, 3/4″ broad back adjustment and 1″ to the hood length.
I’ve already been wearing this jacket a ton over the last couple weeks. It is an excellent grab-and-go and keep with you just-in-case jacket. I love the color so much. People are always asking me if I make my girls’ dresses but they wouldn’t ever ask if I made this!
*I have no need for a disclaimer here. There are no affiliate links in my post. I bought the pattern and supplies myself and as always, these are my honest opinions. 😉