When you sew up a new pattern do you tend to plan a couple other versions in your head but then never get around to it because there is always something new on your list calling your name? I do that all the time. So I feel it is worth recording that I actually followed through this time and made two York Pinafore‘s back to back. And one is reversible so technically I made three!
This pinafore is great for a stay at home mom that wants to feel put together and still comfortable and practical at home. I know I say that about a lot of things I make, probably because those are the types of clothes I gravitate to. Also don’t get me started with what I can now find in my pockets!
When the York released I knew I wanted it and I quickly learned that a good friend of mine was going to make it too. Since it looked like a rather quick project we planned a sewing date to make it together while our husbands watched the kids. I purchased a vertical striped linen from Blackbird fabrics, but didn’t give myself enough leeway for our sewing date so I chose this canyon AGF denim from my stash for my first go with it. The denim had been sitting in the stash for a while because it was a lot stiffer than I anticipated and definitely wouldn’t have worked for pants as I had planned. The York ended up being the perfect alternative and I’m so glad I was able to put it to good use. I made the shorter length anticipating this will be a good fall layering piece with leggings.
When I started cutting the pockets I contemplated whether to cut on grain or on the bias. While playing around, the selvage edge jumped out at me and I just had to incorporate it.
Helen tells you exactly where the neckline is intended to fall and where the bottom of the side scoop should hit. Based on that I had to actually raise my neckline several inches (though I may have gone an inch too high), so I didn’t add any length at the shoulder strap lengthen line, and added most at the waist and hem. I made no other adjustments. I sewed a size medium and my measurements are currently 35-27-37
When my friend and I got together we came with everything cut out so we could get right to sewing. Except I hadn’t made my bias tape yet so I spent a good chunk of our time just making that. Bias tape is always a really slow process for me and I usually try and avoid it, so the idea of a reversible York started rolling around in my head.
It ended up working out perfect that the linen I picked from Blackbird was a lightweight linen, so I paired it with a lightweight chambray. Together they are a great summer weight. I squared up the neckline on this version to work better with the vertical stripes.
I’m still pretty new to working with linen. I’m in love with the substrate and currently only want to work on linen projects, but it is tricky to work with. It doesn’t like to hold it’s shape making it difficult for a perfectionist. I actually finished this dress completely before noticing that the pocket was significantly crooked despite all my pinning. I had to unpick the double stitched hem and take the whole pocket apart to re-steam it and square it up again. It’s a two pieced pocket so all the seams would be enclosed (and so I wouldn’t need to get out any bias tape ;))
We took all of these pictures in 10 minutes, and I didn’t check a mirror in between wardrobe changes, So I didn’t notice on the striped version that it was pulled back over my shoulders a bit and not laying straight in front. It makes it look a little odd in front, but it normally doesn’t do that. These pictures below give a better idea of how it lays on me.
The selvage pocket edge worked so well for me the first time, I did it with this side too.
To make the dress reversible I used the burrito roll method. I often use Simple Life Pattern Co. for my daughters’ dresses, and they fully line almost everything so I just might be able to do it with my eyes closed. Here is a tutorial though if you’ve never done it. For the hem I simply folded both fabrics to the wrong side (inside) and edge stitched and then stitched again about an inch up from the edge.
I didn’t time the first one because I was sewing with a friend and we all know a lot of gabbing goes down when you do that.
I also missed calculating the pattern assembly or cutting time, but the construction of the reversible York took 2 hours and 20 minutes. And then I took it apart to fix the pocket and that probably took me over an hour.
Thank you for following along, there are no paid links in this post. I purchased the fabric and patterns myself. All content and opinions are my own, as always.