I’m thrilled with my final 2018 Indiesew outfit. I feel like I’ve really identified my style this year and these outfits represent it well. Today I’m sharing my Megan Nielsen Ash Jeans paired with my True Bias Roscoe Blouses.
The first Roscoe I made in this pumpkin rayon crepe from Indiesew. I fell hard for rust this year. This is the last piece I have to show for my obsession since I scaled back before my whole wardrobe became the same color. Natural white is the next color I’m after. It pairs well with rust. I ordered some of this delicious off-white linen viscose with a noil feel to it. It’s my favorite fabric ever. I used the same stuff on my first Wiksten Haori. Both fabrics are perfect for this style of top. Let’s start with the pumpkin one:
I’ve never worked with crepe before and I feared it might be scratchy with a tissue paper feel and weight. I was wrong. This has a soft hand, excellent, drape and good substance to it. I made the pattern as intended, sewing a size 6 and adding 3″ to the bodice and sleeves for my height. It is a beautiful and versatile piece and the billowy sleeves are having a moment right now. It wears well untied, but I included one picture of it tied. I think it gives it a pussy bow collar vibe.
For my natural one I wanted to switch it up so I wouldn’t have two identical tops.
I sewed a straight size 2 this time and didn’t add any length to the bodice and only 1″ to the sleeve. So the top is shorter and less billowy than intended. I hemmed the sleeves instead of gathering and banding for a completely different silhouette, perfect for this linen blend. The length lets me get away with it tucked or un-tucked.
Time investment: The pumpkin rayon crepe took 2.5 hours and the white line viscose took 1.5 hours of sewing time, not including cutting time.
Guys, I made these jeans in 3 days! I didn’t time myself, but I cut on Thursday and finished them on Saturday! My first pair of jeans took FOR-E-VER and put me off to making another pair for a while because I spent all that time on them and then didn’t even like how they fit. I didn’t make another pair until Camp Workroom Social this year, and that process demystified the effort. Lauren from Lladybird made us fly through them. We weren’t allowed to use a seam ripper. My biggest take-away was to leave perfectionism at the door. Perfectionism can cripple you from enjoying the process of making jeans. When I look at this pair and my CWS pair I know there are mistakes but nobody sees them and the overall product is something I love and wear on repeat. And the process of making them was one I thoroughly enjoyed.
Fitting: The Ash Jeans are a mid rise stretch denim pattern with 4 leg variations. I sewed mine in a 12 oz cone mills denim that I got last year. I traced the slim leg in a 27 graded to a 28 below the hip. (My waist is 26, hip 36, but my hips are proportionately small so I generally need to size up to fit my legs.) I added 1″ to the rise to make it a high rise and then since it hits at the smallest part of my waist I took a decent wedge out of the yoke and cut the 26 waistband. I scooped the crotch like I normally do, but since these didn’t have as wide of hips as the Gingers I compensated for the scoop by adding the same amount back to the outside of the hip. I didn’t muslin, just baste fitted and then took out the seam allowance at the thighs and calves and tapered in sharply (removing 4″ of ease) below the calf so I would get the skinny leg at the bottom. These are the first skinnys that let my calves breathe!
About length: The pattern comes with a regular, tall and cropped inseam. The variations in length are cut lines at the hem. For longer than average legs you still need to lengthen them as you would any other pattern. For example, my legs are about 3″ above average. 1.5″ of that extra length is in my thigh. The thigh is the widest part of the leg, so if I don’t lengthen the thigh then once the knee hits my thigh I won’t be able to pull my pants any higher. The Ash jeans have very handy notches at the knee, so I held the pattern piece up to my leg and marked where the notch falls in comparison to my knee. That told me I needed 1.5″ more above the knee. I added it 5″ above the knee notch. I added another 1″ about 5″ below the knee notch and then took some of the length out of the tall inseam.
Other details: I re-drafted the pocket to include a pocket stay. Below is what it looked like. I had to move the the fold to the bottom of the pocket instead of the side and then had that section at the top of the pocket go as far as the fly.
I also added an exposed button fly. That is super easy. I simply did not put a zipper in, interfaced the fly pieces and put button holes in the fly instead. You don’t have to re-draft anything to switch to buttons, and I love the look!
The other thing I did with these jeans is I used my cover stitch machine for top-stitching. The chain-stitch has some stretch to it, which is great for stretch jeans. I still need some more practice getting the stitch length even, and I wasn’t able to rely on my edging foot for perfectly straight top-stitching lines, but I rolled with it and am very happy with the results. I will get better with practice.
I also did some distressing. I wanted to do more but when it came down to it I got scared.
These are my new favorite jeans. I love the 4 in 1. I’m making the Dawn Jeans next which is another 4 in 1, but for rigid denim, so between these two jeans patterns I should be set!
I am a part of the Indiesew Blogger team and this post was compensated by Indiesew. It also contains an affiliate link. As always I express my true honest opinions and only rave about things I love. If I don’t like something I either tell you, or I don’t blog it